Friday, January 30, 2009

Seperate Ways...







It has been quite some time since we left you all in the loop. I guess that is what happens when we are staying in a place where we could easily spend our daily budget on one internet session (plus, it's the anticipation that is the turn on, isn't it?). I have some good news... as promised, we are finally able to deliver some long desired pictures to this blog. I will try to briefly describe each one, and then fill you all in on the recent happenings.

The pictures are vastly out of order because I haven't figured out how to upload the pictures correctly. However, the landscape photos are of Ton Sai and some of the walls we climb, the long-tailed boat on our way to Ton Sai, the bamboo bridge being built with natural vines as twine, Suzi and Lek talking, and finally, Suzi and the best menu we have seen since we arrived here... ice cream (not to mention we were in the middle of a Thai department store when we found it).

Since we last left Krabi town, we have been on Ton Sai beach spending our days sun-baking while climbing some world class limestone. The rock seemingly has melted off of the face of itself, leaving and endless supply of pockets, handles, ledges, overhangs, and other features to play on. Next time I update the blog with pictures, I will be sure to snap a few of the bizarre features to let you all see them.

The climbing is hard, way harder then we initially thought it would be. Still though, there are a variety of routes that are a bit more moderate, and for those that are not, the protection is safe for falling. We also ran into some of our Alaska friends while in Ton Sai, so we have been all climbing together and creating Alaska sized ruckus (that is until we fall asleep at 8:30). So what could possibly be the downside of a secluded peninsula full of climbing bums from around the world climbing all day, swimming in a perfect sea, and listening to reggae over a well deserved evening beer.... its expensive. Not to mention the scene. We thought we were coming to Thailand, but lately, despite the great climbing and incomprehensible beauty, we have felt the stronger presence of English speaking foreigners and pizza, rather then the kind dark Thai people. Not to mention, there is a constant sickness that seems to spread to everyone.

To escape, we rented kayaks for the day and made it to some of the far off islands. The seas were so clear, we could see what seemed like forever down. That was until we actually snorkeled in it. I have never been much of a diver or sea goer, and until that day had no idea the absolute beauty of the ocean. With just a short swim, we found ourselves on a reef edge watching way more then we could see from the boat. Fish of all colors and shapes, coral, and bloby things with underwater mouths. Amazing. Too bad the weather picked up and we had to hitch hike a long tail back to the beach we were staying on to avoid getting swamped in our small sit on top kayak.

Time eventually took its course and we had to leave Ton Sai for Krabi once again. We rented a motorbike from Au Nung, and made our way to Krabi last night.
"Drive on the left, drive on the left, drive on the left, oh shit watch out... ahh in the clear, drive on the left Jared, on the left."
After finally figuring all of that out, it was a blast to be free on the road. We came into town for me to resupply cheap things to go back out to Ton Sai, and for Suzi to leave for her Yoga training. Yesterday was full of fun with shopping, eating a huge chocolate Sunday (our first chocolate, and our first ice cream since we have been in Thailand). We were even able to squeeze in a visit to a mountain temple which took 1,237 steps to climb up to.

I dropped Suzi off this morning and now the separate journeys begin. Presumably, she is on some bus or boat right now. Look for her fun filled entries and hopefully pictures soon. I am headed back to the western rock mecca with Kyle and Charlie (the other Alaskans) for a few more weeks. Next time I come back to town i will make sure to add some more pictures.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

City to Jungle to City Once Again

We last left you deafened by the constant sounds of motorbikes and partying westerners. Since then, as has been the case thus far, the world has continued to unfold before us. A six-hour boat ride through the night took us through welcomed calm seas off of Ko Tao. One long mattress on each side of the thin ocean goer slept nearly one hundred strangers close enough to each other to be intimate partners. I slept like a child.

An early morning bus brought us and our new Italian friend, Milo, to the city of Nakkon Si Thamarat. Off the tourist map, we got a cheap hotel, and pounded out all of the sights in one day. This was the first real Thailand we had been to yet. Street dogs and grilled meat, temples and Thai tourists, school children laughing and practicing the extent of their English training, "Hello, where are you from?!"

A shadow puppet master that lives among the concrete smells and noises. His sanctuary houses family and disciples making the age old puppets from hand out of raw hide. Extremely intricate, they have been shown to kings the world around. He gave us a private screening for 2 dollars a piece. A true master. He wakes from a nap, coughed up some phloem, gave the show, and fell back asleep, his round belly open to the tropic air.

The next morning we hopped a taxi and made it to the small village of Kiriwang, at the base of a national park. Our Thai still limited we had all but given up on trying to find a place to stay in this quiet traditional jungle fruit harvesting village. Just about that time, we noticed some pale skin and a familiar language. An hour later, we found ourselves taking turns on the back of a 225cc motor bike climbing impossibly steep and narrow trails deeper into the jungle to our new residence.

Lek and his father manage their jungle "garden" from 200 years of family knowledge. They do as others from around the world in rainforests do - plant and harvest an edible fruit forest. True hosts with the patience to teach us some Thai and show us their home. We hiked and swam in the crystal river, relaxed and learned some Thai, helped build a bamboo bridge, and shared in their meals. There was another french man with them, Roman, who was staying for a few days as well. He is a professional traveller with a huge heart and a willing hand. Someone we hope to meet again soon. Like everything, even paradise has to come to an end. We left in a flurry of Thai goodbyes and awkward hugs to board a bus to Karabi town.

So here we are, back in a new city again. This one coastal and Western. We are here to climb and see some more jungle. We hope to get some pictures up here to share soon. Take care.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Koh Tao (Turtle Island)

We made it across some of the Gulf of Thailand to the island of Koh Toa on a big catamaran. There were 3-5 meter swells and the boat was being tossed around like a rubber ducky. Needless to say, 1/3 of the boat's passengers were throwing up. Jared turned shades of white and green, but held it together. I was not directly affected by the weak stomach syndrom but did manage to get thrown up on!! YUK!

Koh Toa is a mix of the middle of nowhere and Cancun. Lot's of tourists and tourist accomodations, motor bikes everywhere, and resorty style lodgings. We managed to find a cheap little bungalow and a rad little climbing business that hooked us up with info on climbing on the island. Beautiful, huge granite rock with great routes. It's great to get away from the noise of the main beach. The jungle is full of banana and palm trees, loads of hibiscus, and other plants I've not identifuied. Today was a bit of literal baking in the sun and snorkling. The ocean is beautiful. Apparently full of more life around here than the tourist destination of Ko Samui. Too much tourism has taken a tole on the surrounding ecosystem.

We doing well. Got a small case of the overseas insufficient digestion and spending more time on the toilet than normal. We did get snaked by the Tourism Authority of Thailand and got sold a crappy useless open-ended ticket that noone will honor. Supposedly the shop in Bangkok will reimburse. I'm not holding my breath!

All is well in this tropical paradise. Onward tomorrow night to Nhakon Sri Thammarat and then on to Krabi and Ton Sai Beach (I think those spellings are right) to do some more climbing.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Always Moving

After landing and not quite believing we actually arrived half way around the world, we bussed into chaos. Bangkok at its finest. Banglamphu, the once backpacker's haven has been found it seems. More white people then Thai. Shopping everywhere, Pad Thai and spring rolls every 17 ft. A great introduction.

Everone spoke english and smiled when I would ask for the tenth time how to say thank you - khawp khun khap (Suzi says khawp khun kha.) Everytime the map came out, a Thai person would ask where we were going, what did we want to do, ect. And without fail, they would all tell us to take a took took to the government travel agency... so we bit - got bit with a open ended bus ticket with various transfers all over Southern Thailand. For the next three weeks we are able to take our time playing before Suzi's class starts.

We now wait for a boat to take us to Ko Tao island off the east coast. An all night bus ride left us here with a throng of other backpackers. Herded like sheep waiting to go out to pasture, there is nothing we can do but play lots of cribbage and wait until later on today when we can burn our delicate Northern skin.

So much has happend, so little time to actually process it all. When we can figure out how to include pictures on this thing, we most certainly will.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

And Were Off...

We are in our final two hours of below zero weather. Alaska will soon be far behind us and the land of strange language ahead. Thanks to all one of you who followed and commented on our quest to see if we should take our bikes or not.

The verdict (is all in the new title)... No Bikes.

So, as we settle into a new part of the world, we will do our best to keep you all up on what is going on.

Saturday, January 3, 2009

The Countdown is On

Here we are, back in Alaska from visiting family in the Midwest. We have 3 days until we depart, and amongst the thousand or so loose ends we have to tie up, we are still trying to figure out if we are going to take our bikes. We have been going back and forth on it.

So, here is the challange...

If anyone is actually reading this thing, and has a suggestion one way or the other let us know. You can comment below or email us at bicycleasia@yahoo.com (I know the name says it all, but what's in a name anyways?)